Christmas Markets

Advent, or Christmas markets, originated in the German-speaking parts of Europe during the Middle Ages. The earliest record of a Christmas market dates back to 1296 when the first one was held in Vienna . The tradition spread to other areas of Europe and these markets were common in Germany , Switzerland and some parts of France . These days, the tradition of Christmas markets has spread around the world.

Two years ago we were lucky enough to be in Vienna at the start of Advent. There are 21 Advent markets in Vienna in the run-up to Christmas and we got to visit the ones that are held in Rathausplatz; at the Schonnbrunn Palace; at the Belvedere Palace; in Karlsplatz and the one in Maria-Theresien-Platz. At the time of our visit I had not yet started my blog, so I have very few photos of the wooden booths and their gorgeous wares.

A common feature of all the Christmas markets we went to is the scent of gingerbread and mulled wine (a non-alcoholic version is also available); bratwurst and roasting chestnuts. The booths are fascinating, selling hand-made treasures such as toys, soaps, Christmas ornaments and candles ,amongst other things.

The backdrop to these markets is as appealing as the booths themselves. In Rathausplatz, the imposing Gothic façade of the Town Hall (Rathaus) towers over the people milling in the square at the traditional Christmas Market (Christkindlmarkt) and acts as a giant Advent calendar.

The Culture and Christmas market in the courtyard of the Schonbrunn Palace is a throw-back to the days of Imperial Vienna. I almost expected an emperor to ride down the courtyard on a stallion or one of the court ladies in sweeping skirts to peep at us from behind one of the many windows.

The Christmas market in Karlsplatz is famous for the number of crafts which are on sale. The most notable being:  paintings, jewellery, stained glass and wooden items. Situated in this square is the church of St Charles Borromeo with its huge, imposing columns.

Artisans from different ethnic backgrounds were selling their goods in the stalls outside the Belvedere Palace . Various articles of African art and jewellery helped to provide a different ambience to this market.

The Christmas village in Maria-Theresien-Platz is one of the latest additions to the list of Advent markets in Vienna .

There is a certain romance about wandering around in the frosty winter air, with snow flakes gently wafting down from cotton-candy clouds, while drinking a mug of warm mulled wine and shopping for loved ones. It is easy to close your eyes and imagine the booths of long ago, lit up by candles, selling wares which were made as lovingly then as they are now.

  

There is something for everybody at the Christmas markets and, as you can see from the photos above, we gave in to our temptations quite a few times but, when we look at the things we brought back with us, we remember the happy time we spent there, mingling traditional Christmas shopping with the beauty and splendour of Imperial Vienna.

Ruby Tuesday: Red is for Fun

Ever since I started participating in the Ruby Tuesday meme I can’t walk past anything red without stopping to take a photograph. While window shopping in the Italian town of Lucca, these cute red spectacles by Agatha Ruiz de la Prada just called out to me and I had to snap a shot. They are meant for kids but I wouldn’t mind owning a pair myself – they are so vibrant and look like so much fun.

For more shades of red from around the world go to Work of the Poet hosted by Mary the Teach.

Medieval Manhattan

A short drive away from Siena is the small walled town of San Gimignano (pronounced San Giminiano) .

Known by some as the medieval Manhattan, San Gimignano boasts 15 spectacular towers which were built by rival noble families during the 12th and 13th centuries. In its heyday there was a total of 72 towers. Being on the major pilgrim route to Rome , San Gimignano prospered during the middle ages. However, the Black Death and diversion of the pilgrim route resulted in a period of decline from which the town never fully recovered. San Gimignano has remained mostly unchanged, its towers attracting visitors from far and wide.

Via San Giovanni, the main street of the town, is lined with interesting shops selling, amongst others,  pottery, paintings, linens and objects made out of olive wood.

It is not a very long street but the wares on sale are too tempting to ignore and each shop lures you in with the promise of a new little treasure you just have to buy. The street winds itself towards Piazza della Cisterna, the heart of the old town. The well in the square is still a meeting place for the townspeople.

This square in turn leads to Piazza del Duomo, dominated by the modest 12th century Romanesque church known as La Collegiata.

While most visitors tend to stick to the main street and square, I found that wandering through the quiet back streets was a more rewarding experience since they were mostly deserted and I could stop and admire the old buildings and, of course, the towers.

However, I was also intrigued by a number of very interesting door knockers and house bells made out of wrought iron.

The streets at edge of the town provide a wonderful spot from where to stop and admire the Tuscan countryside.

Small wine bars and restaurants abound in this little town and it is also home to Gelateria di Piazza. It’s owner, Stefano Dondoli lovingly creates delectable ice-creams which have impressed visitors from around the world. His chocolate ice-cream once won the title of the world's “best ice-cream of the year”. Having tasted his Fior di Nutella and Frutti di Bosco (forest fruit) flavours, I can attest that these ice-creams are amongst the best that I have ever had the pleasure to eat.

In some strange way, San Gimignano seems like a benevolent grandfather; an old town with a gentle soul. Perhaps it’s because everything happens under the watchful eyes of the towers, their strength and longevity emitting an aura of security. Gazing up at their towering height I couldn’t help but marvel at those builders of long ago, at their sheer tenacity and marvelous feats of engineering.

We left San Gimignano as the sun started to set over the Tuscan countryside. In the fading light, all detail was lost and all we could see were silhouettes. It was almost surreal, like a land out of a fairytale. In the stillness of the night I felt like we were intruders in a magical land that had cast a spell over our hearts - a spell that will not easily be broken; a spell which, I believe, will last a life time.

Seductive Siena

I have never been so completely enthralled by a place as I was with Siena . Built on three hills surrounded by olive groves and the famed Chianti vineyards, its origins date back to the Roman era. However, Siena was not prosperous under the Romans since it was too far from the major trade routes. It was during the Middle Ages that Siena enjoyed a measure of good fortune. From the moment I entered Siena , it was like I had stepped back in time.

The streets are narrow, the buildings of sombre dark-red bricks. Decoration on the houses is minimal. There is none of the frivolity and extravagance of the later Renaissance and Baroque periods. In Siena what you see is what you get. Austere and simple; aloof and mysterious – a town of winding streets and steep hills.

                

 

 

 

 

 

      

Then, surrounded on all sides by these brick houses, a square, in the midst of which is a cathedral like no other I have seen. For in contrast to the simplicity around it, the duomo of Santa Maria dell’Assunta is like an exotic orchid. Seeing its dazzling whiteness for the first time took my breath away.

All the artistic effort of the city seems to have been focused on this one building. It is built in the Romanesque style and there is not one small nook or cranny that does not boast a work of art whether it is a carving, a statue, a mosaic, a painting or a stained glass window.

The façade alone is worth a thousand pictures and the interior is as flamboyant as the exterior had hinted. Few churches have made me gasp at their sheer beauty. The duomo of Santa Maria dell’Assunta is one of them.

Walking away from Piazza del’Duomo and delving once more into the narrow, winding streets we walked towards the world-famous Piazza del Campo.

Shaped like an enormous sea-shell, this piazza hosts the Palio horse race every July and August. In the race the different contrade (districts) of Siena compete for the coveted Palio -  an embroidered banner bearing the image of Mary. The jockeys ride the horses bareback at break neck speed around the piazza and fatalities of both horse and rider are not uncommon. Animal Rights activists have been lobbying for an end to this race for a number of years, but, like bull fighting in Spain and fox hunting in England , this tradition is too deeply rooted in the culture of Siena for anything to change anytime soon. Piazza del Campo, or simply, Il Campo as the Siennese call it, is dominated by the tall bell tower adjacent to the Palazzo Pubblico.

The Torre della Mangia is the second tallest medieval tower in Italy and one of the most recognised landmarks in Siena . The climb to the top of the tower is not for the faint-hearted but the view from the top is well worth the effort and the breathlessness. From the top of the tower, Siena spreads out on all sides in an intriguing mesh of houses, streets and churches.

In the distance, the vineyards and olive groves for which Tuscany is so famous and, at the foot of the tower, Il Campo, filled with tourists, locals and the ubiquitous pigeons. At the northern end of the piazza, is the Fonte Gaia.

 

Wandering again around the streets of Siena , it was the little details that caught my eye: carvings on a door; a Gothic window here or there; a splash of colour and, of course, the exuberant pottery of Siena – all of it lovingly hand painted.

Saying goodbye to Siena was hard. Its medieval beauty is captivating; its allure is bewitching. Siena is not a place that embraces you in a flamboyant expression of welcome. Instead it draws you in gradually, revealing itself slowly and seducing your soul. Perhaps that is what makes it so dangerous.

Ruby Tuesday: Vintage Sign

If any of you have read my previous post you will know that I recently came across an Antiques Fair in the Italian city of Lucca . It was while wandering through this fair that this bright red vintage sign caught my eye.

It is an advert for Campari Soda. Campari is an infusion of bitter herbs, aromatic plants, fruit and alcohol in water. Campari soda is obtained by adding carbonated water to Campari. It has a distinctive red colour and is commonly used as an aperitif.

I know that the picture is somewhat off-centre but I just saw it from across the square and zoomed in. I thought it would make an interesting post for this week’s Ruby Tuesday and I know that a lot of you love all things vintage.

For more Ruby Tuesday’s hop on over to Mary at Work of the Poet.

Antiquing in Lucca

Situated about 45 minutes to the North West of Pisa is the fortified city of Lucca. Like most Italian cities, the origins of Lucca date back to the Roman era. The old town is encircled by intact walls from the Renaissance period.

These walls have been converted into pedestrianised areas so it is possible to walk around the whole town along the walls.

We arrived in Lucca on a rather gloomy afternoon and walked through pathways set inside the walls into the town. I was elated to find out that the town streets and squares were being used to host an Antiques Fair.

After spending the whole summer longing to stumble upon something like this at home, I had to travel to Italy to make my dream a reality – and all this without even planning it. Things could not be better. The only drawback was that there was no way I could take any of the big pieces home without breaking the bank in shipping costs. So I had to content myself with viewing and taking pictures of the wares and of the uniquely beautiful surroundings. Few Antiques Fairs can boast such a backdrop as the Pisan-Romanesque duomo of St Martin.

Like many other towns in Tuscany, the streets in Lucca are narrow and lined with high buildings. Stalls for the Antiques Fair were spread around in every possible nook and cranny but especially in the piazzas. All sorts of wares were on sale: china, mirrors, jewellery, carpets, linens, paintings, musical instruments, books …

Those of you who have been to yard sales or antiques fairs will not be surprised by this, but it was the first time I came across anything of this sort and I was literally mesmerized. I felt like taking the whole town with all its stalls back home with me but I have to content myself with the memories … and the photos …

Off the beaten track we came across the church of San Romano and then walked on to the main shopping area of Lucca situated around the church of San Michele and Piazza Anfiteatro. The church was built on the site of an old Roman forum and construction started in the eleventh century. The original intention was for the interior to be much higher but money ran out so part of the façade of the church sticks out into the air like a disused prop from the movies.

The elliptical Piazza Anfiteatro is built on the site of the old amphitheatre and the buildings form an oval around a large central space.

The shopping streets around the piazza were bursting with people doing shopping or just out for a stroll and a chat in that typical Mediterranean way that I know so well.

Another attraction in Lucca is the house of composer Giacomo Puccini, who lived there for a number of years. Puccini’s house is open to the public but snooping around the antiques fair took too much time and there was none left over to go and find the house.

As dusk fell and the shops and restaurants turned on their lights, the golden glow from the premises created patches of light on the darkening streets, reminding me of those bygone days when weary travelers would look for the glow emanating from some inn or tavern to rest and eat.

And like the weary travelers of old, we made our way to a nice restaurant to eat a delicious plate of pasta washed down with some cool Chianti.

Leaving the city through the old deserted passageways and tunnels in the walls, I could understand what it felt like to walk around hundreds of years ago in the dark streets with flickering street lamps as the only source of light.

I had walked towards Lucca with some trepidation as I was not aware of its charms but I walked away with the promise to return for a longer stay.

A Walk Around Pisa

I would like you to bear with me as I take you on a brief tour of the lovely towns and villages that we visited on our recent trip to Tuscany. I will dedicate this first post to Pisa, which we used as a base to reach the other places on our itinerary.

As soon as I walked through the main gate in Pisa’s walls, I was immediately struck by the vast square known as Piazza dei Miracoli. In the crisp air the distant mountains seemed to be almost within reach and the sun’s rays made the Duomo, Baptistery and leaning Tower, all made of white Carrara marble, gleam and shine, setting them apart from the more traditional ochres and terracottas of the rest of the buildings.

The tower, of course, is the most famous landmark, easily eclipsing the other two beautiful buildings simply because it is leaning over although it is beautiful in its own right too.

Also in this square is the Camposanto Monumentale, a vast cemetery with a Gothic façade.

Various narrow streets lead off Piazza dei Miracoli into the heart of Pisa. A short walking distance away is the Borgo district, the medieval core of the city. It is an area of narrow arcaded streets, lined with shops and cafeterias, which lead to the Arno River. The medieval architecture and the attention to little details provided me with many photo opportunities:

Romanesque windows

Shuttered windows

Arched streets

Even fallen stucco seemed beautiful, as if it had purposely been removed to create an opportunity for the dormant artist in me to rise to the surface.

Because whenever I am in Italy, it seems as if all my senses come alive and I feel that I should take up a brush and paint the scene, even though I have never attempted a single painting in my life. It is as if even the dilapidated and the shabby have a beauty of their own and it is hard to use the word ‘ugly’ to describe anything.

Each street had its own little treasure.

A tiny chapel

Or a larger church

An unexpected Piazza in the midst of a maze of narrow winding streets

And palaces with ornate facades

I wandered around until I reached the banks of the Arno. It was almost sunset and the setting sun brought out the ambers, yellows and browns of the buildings, providing a colourful contrast to the sky and the dark blue waters of the flowing river.

The white façade of the Gothic church of the Holy Thorn is like a milky pearl amongst more exuberant jewels.

Then, in the last rays of the fast-setting sun, it was time to visit Piazza dei Miracoli once again, to see the ornate white buildings change colour to a rosy hue before darkness fell over the medieval city.