The stories of my life on a little island in the middle of the Mediterranean sea ... and my occasional adventures beyond these shores.

Sunday, 7 August 2016

A day in Bath

Bath is not a huge city but there are enough attractions to fill up the best part of a day. If you're travelling by car, the best way to see the city is to park, ride and then walk around. The must-see attractions are situated at a leisurely 30 minute walk from each other and one day will give you ample time to see and experience what Bath has to offer.

The Roman Baths

Bath is an ancient city that was inhabited long before the Romans came to Britain. Although its original name is lost, during the Roman occupation of Britain the town was know as Aquae Sulis (the waters of Sulis) - Sulis being the name of the deity worshipped by the ancient Britons at the place where a hot spring bubbled forth from the earth. Never ones to pass a good idea if they saw one, the Romans merged the worship of Sulis with that of their goddess Minerva, and Sulis Minerva was born. A great temple was built in her honour right next to the hot spring and huge baths were erected in the vicinity of the temple.

Entrance to the Roman Baths, Bath

Entrance to the Roman Baths and temple

Entrance to the baths is via a a 19th century building that is adjoined to the Great Pump Room constructed about a century earlier. Are the Romans Baths worth a visit? For anyone who loves ancient history, they certainly are. An audio-guide is provided with the entrance ticket and the information on the audio-guide together with the large number of information boards spread around the complex  provide a fascinating insight into life in Roman Britain and into the baths and temple themselves.

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The Great Bath

The current city of Bath is about 4 metres above the town of Aquae Sulis so, apart from the Great Bath, which is open to the elements, the remains of the other parts of the Roman Baths and the remnants of the temple are on a subterranean level. At the end of the tour, visitors can sample filtered mineral water from the spring which has made Bath so famous for over two thousand years (be warned that it tastes very metallic). Exit is through a National Trust shop that sells a variety of interesting souvenirs. The shop is also directly accessible from the street.

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Bronze head of Sulis Minerva

 

Bath Abbey

Another building that shouldn't be missed on a day trip to Bath, and situated right next to the Roman Baths, is the Abbey Church of St Peter and St Paul - more popularly known as Bath Abbey. A church has stood on this site since the 7th century but it was destroyed and rebuilt several times. Following Henry VIII's infamous quarrel with the Church and the subsequent dissolution of the monasteries in 1539, Bath Abbey was in ruins until work on its restoration started in the 1600s.

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Bath Abbey

Large parts of the current abbey were added to the 17th century building by architect Sir George Gilbert Scott in the 1860s. The present abbey of Bath is a splendid example of Victorian Gothic architecture. It boasts a wonderful fan ceiling and over fifty windows of stained glass.

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Fan ceiling in Bath Abbey

Bath Abbey is famous for having been the place of coronation of King Edgar in 973. It stands right next to the spot where the ancient Romans had built their temple to Sulis Minerva and one of my favourite views  of Bath Abbey is its reflection in the water of the Great Bath: history - layer upon layer of fascinating juxtapositions - that's why it's a subject that will forever fascinate me.

The Great Bath & Bath Abbey

The Great Bath & Bath Abbey

 

The Circus and the Royal Crescent

Throughout the centuries, Bath had is fair share of popularity and misfortune. Following a period of decline, the city became popular again in the late 18th century when fashionable gentry travelled there to 'take the waters'. It was during this time that an architectural revival took place that led to the construction of, amongst others, the world-famous Circus and Royal  Crescent. The houses at the Circus and the Royal Crescent are perfect examples of Georgian architecture in the grandiose Palladian style. The sweeping arcs of the Royal Crescent in particular, bring to mind a palatial residence - although in actual fact the Crescent is made up of 30 separate houses whose exterior is repeated from one end to the other to create a  uniform style and the illusion that one is looking at a single residence.

Which the Royal Crescent is shaped like an arc, the Circus is a perfect circle. Architect John Wood (the elder) designed its diameter to coincide with the dimensions of Stonehenge. Number 17 used to be the home of painter Thomas Gainsborough and was used as his portrait studio.

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The Circus

The Shops

You're probably wondering what shopping has to do with history and architecture and, of course, the answer would be nothing. But, in my opinion, you cannot travel to a city and not stop for a while to discover its shops.

Due to its compact city centre most of the the shops in Bath are within easy walking distance of each other. Apart from the usual high-street stores that you'll find  in every major town and city across England, Bath boasts a large number of independently-owned stores and boutiques selling everything from the quirky to the eclectic.

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Outdoor stalls dot the city streets, some of them, like The Chilli Hut, selling produce that I would not usually expect to find in the historical centre of a city like Bath.

Just round the corner from the Royal Crescent, a pedestrianised street (that appears to be known as Margaret's Buildings) is lined with delightful little shops. On the corner at the upper part of the street, Bath Old Books is a must-stop shop for all book lovers. This shop stocks a wide array of books on specialised subjects together with a large selection of Jane Austen novels and children's books. I had barely stepped inside the bookstore when my nostrils were tickled with the unmistakable scent of old books, all crowded together but in an orderly manner. I inhaled deeply and didn't want to leave.

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Bath Old Books

Literally just a few steps away, Off The Wall Antiques offers a veritable treasure-trove of excellently curated objects from around the world. This store felt more like a well-travelled person's home than a run-of-the-mill antiques store. I just wish I'd remembered to take some photographs.

Other shops worth a mention are Bath Aqua Glass - a glass company specialising in stained glass, glass blowing, glass jewellery and decorations; Gallery Nine - an art gallery that offers a selection of jewellery, ceramics and original prints; The San  Francisco Fudge Factory - for handmade fudge, chocolates and other sweet treats; and Vintage to Vogue - a clothing shop speciliasing in quality men's and women's vintage clothing. Unfortunately, there's never enough time to check out all the shops that I would have liked to but you can take a sneak peek at a few others here.

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Bath Old Books & Gallery Nine

8 comments:

  1. Dear Loree what a wonderful visit to this ancient city. The Bath Abbey is such a gorgeous work of art. I would mist certainly have spent time in that bookstore. What a treat to visit this beautiful place with you. Hugs!

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  2. Wonderful post Loree! Thank you
    The Roman bath is fascinating that it still stands.

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  3. Enjoyable tour of Bath, I love the fan ceiling of the abbey and also the Circus.

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  4. Dear Loree what a wonderful visit to this ancient city. The Bath Abbey is such a gorgeous work of art. I would mist certainly have spent time in that bookstore. What a treat to visit this beautiful place with you. Hugs!

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  5. I was in BATH in 1981 but did not see the BATHS!I need to VISIT............
    YOU have done a good job telling me what to see upon my return!
    BRAVA!
    XX

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  6. It's so funny that when I was visiting Bath, all I could think of is Jane Austen. I was always looking for clues or would imagine a scene from one of her books and imagine where it would take place in town. I love Bath and I'd definitely visit this place again.

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  7. Bath is such a beautiful city ! I was there 3 years ago, unfortunately we had heavy rain and took a sightseeing bus, at least we saw everything !

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  8. Definitely a place that I want to visit :) thank you for the tour!!

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